Thursday, 27 December 2012
Saturday, 22 December 2012
I raided my daughters old pen box and found a dead one to use as the air brake reservoir. It looks about the right size but when offered up needs so much cut out from the back that it just doesn't look rights. I sketched out this and other details including the footboards, bonnet hinges and bufferbeam hooks. Add to that the fact that the Zillertal engine doesn't have train brakes fitted anyway, and I think I'm going to leave them off.
I made use of the time today to also cut off the corners of the buffer beams, file the smooth and remove the screws. These are now ready for filling.
Scribbled by James H at 22:55
Wednesday, 19 December 2012
However thoughts will now turn to work on the chassis, as this also needs some smoothing. First up will be to strip out the drive unit to keep it free from contamination. Then I'll cut the corners to the buffer beans and remove the screws. I'll then fabricate the brake cylinders and use the excess Milliput to smooth the buffer beams and the can rear. Once these are smoothed I can add the shunters platforms to the step and the buffer beam cable hooks. I then want to add the bonnet doors, vents and hinges, before adding the lighting and finishing with handrails. Then just prior to painting I'll fabricate a coupling bar to sit on the foot plate.
Painting seems a long way away but it's probably only a few hours of modelling in reality. More soon...
Scribbled by James H at 22:04
Friday, 14 December 2012
As I guessed there were a few low spots on the surface so I needed a second going over with Milliput.
Therefore to avoid doing a third batch at this stage I finished off work on the cab and exhaust stack. This involved filling the gaps on the front of the cab, and adding some plasticard to the base of the exhaust stack to get the height right. Once ready Milliput was used again to fill the holes in the cab and to smooth the low points in the bonnet.
Scribbled by James H at 21:27
Wednesday, 12 December 2012
To get the bonnet looking right it needs a rounded top and smoothed edges. From a technique I learnt in the construction of the Faur Lxd2 kit I decided to layer plasticard and then complete with Milliput. Once it's hardened I can sand it smooth. I expect it will need a second going over, but that's fine because the cab still needs most of it's holes filling.
Scribbled by James H at 22:47